The crust is crucial: l’Aventino brings next-generation Roman pizza to Streeterville
by Doug Rapp
When Adam Weisell would return to Rome after growing up there with his United Nations-employed parents, he often heard about a new style of pizza.
People would tell the budding chef about pinsa (pro- nounced “peen-sa”).
“I’d go eat it and think, ‘This is delicious,’” Weisell said. He was used to the wide, thin-crust Roman pizzas but pinsa had a different crust—a crispy exterior with an airy texture, moist and fragrant inside.
Weisell loves pinsa so much that after nearly two decades cooking for others, including Mario Batali, he’s opened his own restaurant, L’Aventino Forno Romano, 355 E. Ohio St., featuring this “modern play on a very traditional Roman pizza.”
“Chicago is such a pizza town and yet there’s a style that’s vastly underrepresented here,” said Weisell, who has cooked in mostly Italian restaurants in New York City, San Francisco and Chicago, including Eataly.
“Pinsa hasn’t come across the U.S. in a big way and I’m hoping to be part of that,” Weisell added, noting that oval flatbread pizzas are popular throughout Italy and Europe.
Open since late November, l’Aventino has three levels that seat 48, a full-service bar and patio that will open for warmer weather.
“It’s a little funky,” Weisell said. “It reminds me a lot of a Roman restaurant.”
The menu features several pinsas, with a variety of top- pings and vegetarian-friendly options. Weisell said the crust is made of soy, wheat and rice ours and takes 48 hours to ferment, which increases its flavor and digestibility.
“The reception has been overwhelmingly positive,” Weisell said. “Once people are in the door and eat it, I think most people are hooked.”
Weisell said l’Aventino, named after one of the seven hills ancient Rome was built on, has gotten a lot of foot traffic from people coming in out of curiosity.
“One of the appeals of the location is that people are going to be constantly walking by on their way to the (Northwestern Memorial) hospital or their way home from work,” he said.
Weisell said he’s pleased with how his first restaurant is going.
“At the end of the day, this is dough with sauce and cheese on it, so it is not that different,” he said. “It’s just a slightly different style.”